A healthy animal gives you a head start; an unwell one can mean months of worry and vet bills. Whether you’re buying at an expo, from a shop or online, here’s how to tell the difference before you commit.
Start with the eyes
Bright, clear, alert eyes are the first sign of a healthy reptile. Look for anything sunken (a classic sign of dehydration), cloudy outside of a shed cycle, or crusted and weepy. A curious animal that tracks movement is generally a good sign; a listless one that doesn’t react deserves a second look.
Check body condition
You want an animal that looks well-covered but not obese. Watch for:
- Visible hip and rib bones or a sharply defined spine — signs of an underweight or poorly fed animal.
- A sunken, wrinkled look that doesn’t bounce back — dehydration.
- For geckos, a plump tail. Species like leopard and crested geckos store fat in the tail, so a thin, wispy tail is a red flag.
Look at the skin and shed
Healthy skin is smooth and evenly coloured. Retained shed — especially stuck around the toes, tail tip or eyes — points to humidity problems or an animal that’s struggling. A few small scars are normal; open wounds, scabs or discoloured patches are not.
Watch how it moves and breathes
A healthy reptile moves with purpose and grips well. Be cautious of:
- Laboured or open-mouth breathing, or any clicking, wheezing or bubbling — possible respiratory infection.
- Weakness or wobbliness, or difficulty righting itself.
- Mucus around the nose or mouth.
Ask the seller the right questions
The animal tells you a lot, but a good seller tells you the rest. Always ask:
- Is it captive-bred, and how old is it?
- What is it eating, how often, and when did it last feed?
- How has it been housed — temperatures, humidity, UVB?
- Has it been quarantined, and are there any known health issues?
A keeper who knows their animals will answer without hesitation. Vague or evasive answers are themselves an answer.
Trust the process, not the impulse
It’s easy to fall for the first animal you see. Slow down, run through this checklist, and remember that a slightly higher price for a healthy, captive-bred, established animal is the cheapest insurance in the hobby. Everything we list is quarantined, feeding and captive-bred for exactly this reason — see what’s available or ask us anything before you buy.
This article is general guidance, not veterinary advice. If you’re worried about an animal’s health, consult an exotics vet.